Durachlor 3" Tablets Wrapped, 50 lb Pail | C008024-PL50
Durachlor

Durachlor 3" Tablets Wrapped, 50 lb Pail | C008024-PL50

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SKU: C008024-PL50

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About This Item

Size: 50lb pail with 3" tablets (8 oz each)
Contains: Trichlor chlorine, 90% chlorine availability.

Features

  • Stabilized chlorine protected from UV rays
  • Pressed without gums or binders on high pressure equipment

Benefits

  • Slow dissolving
  • Provides steady levels of chlorine into pool
  • Will not clog feeders
  • Will clean gummed up feeders

Applications

  • Fill automatic or floating chlorine feeder with tablets and adjust rate to achieve 1 to 3 ppm
  • Test the chlorine residual in the pool water frequently
  • DO NOT add other product to the skimmer or chemical feeder while product is in the skimmer

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More about Chlorine Products for Pool Water Care

Buyer's Guide: Chlorine Products for Pool Water Care

1. Trichlor Tablets (3" Pucks)

  • Best For: Routine Daily Maintenance.
  • Stabilized?: Yes (Contains CYA/Sunscreen).
  • Dissolve Rate: Slow (Dissolves over days).
  • Primary Role: The "Cruise Control" for sanitization. Used in floaters or chlorinators to maintain a steady baseline.

2. Dichlor Granular

  • Best For: Spas, Hot Tubs, & Vinyl Pools.
  • Stabilized?: Yes (Contains CYA/Sunscreen).
  • Dissolve Rate: Fast (Dissolves in minutes).
  • Primary Role: Rapid sanitization without clouding the water. It is pH neutral and gentle on sensitive liners and surfaces.

3. Cal-Hypo Granular

  • Best For: Shocking & Super-Chlorination.
  • Stabilized?: No (Unstabilized).
  • Dissolve Rate: Medium (May need pre-dissolving).
  • Primary Role: The heavy lifter. Used to kill algae outbreaks and fix cloudy water. Note: This will raise Calcium Hardness levels over time.

4. Liquid Chlorine

  • Best For: Commercial Pools, Cold Water, & Immediate Results.
  • Stabilized?: No (Unstabilized).
  • Dissolve Rate: Instant.
  • Primary Role: The purest form of sanitizer. It leaves no byproduct buildup (like CYA or Calcium) but requires frequent dosing if used as a primary source.

Complete Your Pool Care Routine

Essential Pairing
Pool Water Balancers for Proper Chemical Balance

Chlorine is significantly less effective if pH is above 7.6. You must balance the water first.

Shop Pool Water Balancers for Proper Chemical Balance
Highly Recommended
Pool Water Testing Supplies

You cannot manage what you do not measure. Weekly testing ensures your Free Chlorine is adequate.

Shop Pool Water Testing Supplies
Pro Tip: Don't Forget
Pool Shock Treatments for Water Clarity

Shocking is required to oxidize waste and "recharge" your daily chlorine to keep it working efficiently.

Shop Pool Shock Treatments for Water Clarity
Technician's Guide: Chlorine Products for Pool Water Care +

What is Pool Chlorine?
Chlorine is the primary workhorse of swimming pool health. It serves a dual purpose: sanitization (killing bacteria, viruses, and algae) and oxidation (breaking down organic debris like sweat, oils, and cosmetics). When chlorine enters the water, it transforms into hypochlorous acid, the active agent that attacks contaminants.

How it Works:
Effective chlorination relies on maintaining "Free Chlorine"—the amount of active sanitizer available to do new work. Once chlorine attacks a contaminant, it becomes "Combined Chlorine" (chloramine), which is ineffective and causes the dreaded "pool smell." The goal of any chlorine program is to keep Free Chlorine levels between 1.0 and 3.0 ppm (parts per million) while keeping Combined Chlorine near zero.

Common Questions +

Q: Why does my pool smell strongly of chlorine?
A: Ironically, a strong chemical smell usually means you don't have enough chlorine. The smell is caused by "chloramines" (spent chlorine). To get rid of the smell, you actually need to add a heavy dose of chlorine (shock) to burn off the chloramines and free up the sanitizer.

Q: What is the difference between Stabilized and Unstabilized chlorine?
A: Stabilized chlorine (Trichlor/Dichlor) contains Cyanuric Acid (CYA), which acts as a sunscreen to prevent the sun from destroying the chlorine. It is ideal for daily outdoor use. Unstabilized chlorine (Liquid/Cal-Hypo) has no sun protection and is best used for shocking the pool, indoor pools, or when CYA levels are already high.

Q: How often should I add chlorine?
A: You should maintain a consistent level of 1–3 ppm at all times. For most pools using tablets, this means filling the feeder or floater once a week. However, during heatwaves or heavy use, you may need to supplement with liquid chlorine or granular shock mid-week.

Q: Can I just throw chlorine tablets into the skimmer?
A: Never put tablets directly into the skimmer unless the specific product instructions say so. Tablets are highly acidic; when the pump turns off, the concentrated acid can destroy your pump seal, heater, and plumbing. Always use a dedicated chlorinator or floating dispenser.

Q: Why is my chlorine level zero even though I just added some?
A: This is often due to "Chlorine Demand." If your water has a high level of algae, bacteria, or nitrogen (ammonia), these contaminants devour the chlorine instantly. You must continue to add chlorine until the demand is met and a residual reading holds.

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